LE MARCHE

A Whisper of Wind

Our vineyards are located on the Marche hills that roll steeply toward the sea, whose presence and light can be glimpsed to the east and, to the west, towards the Apennines. The sea, even if invisible from most of the vineyards, is sensed by the vines. The marine geological origins of these soils produces flavorful wines and is the hallmark of our wines. The perfect altitude, 450 meters above sea level, and the vineyards’ optimal exposure complete the description of a terroir highly suited to the production of quality wines, characterized by remarkable minerality and flavor. We have always practiced sustainable agriculture on the farm, and today we are a certified organic farm and winery. Our vines and olive trees sink their roots in a land that once was a salt mine, hence the name of the road that leads to our winery: “Salmagina.” Of the ancient agricultural landscape, we preserve the centuries-old oaks, elms, mulberry trees, dwellings, and the typical rolling hills characteristic of this part of Le Marche. Today, vineyards color the fields, while the uncultivated spaces retain historic patches of Mediterranean scrub, aligned mostly to the west, protected from the north wind. The village of Staffolo, one of the Castelli di Jesi, stands tall, bearing the vine in its coat of arms. This ancient village is experiencing a new era of worldwide fame thanks to its now celebrated Verdicchio.
But let’s get back to the vineyards. The vines must be healthy to be able to defend themselves. In newly planted vineyards, we weed manually to give the young cuttings a chance to breathe, otherwise suffocated by the vigor of wild weeds.

In older vineyards, we weed mechanically; we don’t irrigate because this forces the vines to sink their roots ever deeper, where they draw on all kinds of minerals, including from the tuff rocks that grow deep beneath them.
We shorten the tops and reduce the number of leaves to increase exposure to sunlight and aeration of the bunches. In short, we cultivate in full compliance with the rules of organic farming and beyond. The vines are pruned using the Guyot training, leaving a maximum of seven buds.
Every year, every wine is different. We allow nature to unfold and express itself freely, limiting human intervention to what is absolutely necessary. We have always believed, and continue to believe, in the expression of the terroir, in specificity and uniqueness. We begin in the soil, with winter pruning, when we select the buds that will bear fruit. We carefully select the quantity of leaves to remove or leave, depending on the vintage. We rigorously select the bunches to ripen. Finally, comes the final works in the vineyards and the first in the cellar begin: the harvest, when the picker makes the first, manual quality selection. By making sure that only healthy bunches reach the cellar, the work is already done. Harvest is done manually in small crates with utmost respect for the bunches. Only perfect grapes make it to the winery, where we gently press them.
Tradition and innovation, past and future, this is our motto.

WHY CHOOSE AZIENDA AGRICOLA ZACCAGNINI?

MEN

“In the land of Staffolo, men are like old elm trees married to vines, arm in arm along the rows of trees. They bear the weight of a long history that makes the town proud of its virtues.”

TIME

“…the wind comes bearing the sound of the hour from the village tower…” The figures of the almanac leap in sequence: here, daily time flies and has the measure of eternity.

COLORS

“It is the seasons, in the incredible cycle of the year, that color the fields and plants. In the ever-changing chromatic register of Salmàgina, the countryside changes its appearance every day, or rather, every hour, and perhaps even less so, depending on the more or less prolonged pause of a cloud over the geography of the valley.”

LAND

“The land faces west, uniquely perpendicular to the coastline. This anomaly creates a microclimate that is beneficial to the vines.”

SALT

“Salt represents wisdom, especially in the agricultural history of Salmàgina. The salt mines, once located here, have now disappeared, however the earth has retained its essence, has imprisoned its flavor.”

STONES

“Who knows why the stones that emerge from the earth during excavations and plowing are all rounded, smooth, oblong, with a modest surface consistency, sandstone. These same stones have been, over the centuries, used to build houses and even the Church of Santa Maria della Castellaretta.”

WATER

“During and after every rain, the water runs along the furrows that crisscross the fields, skilfully traced as if guided by a ruler, intersecting according to the slopes of the earth. Thus the water does not stagnate, does not wash away, does not overflow, but ends up, cheerfully, in the ditch at the bottom, where the world ends.”

AIR

“Mario looks at the sky, also frowning. He sees the black cloud advancing, swollen, ready to burst open, striking at innocence. The vineyard trembles. Then the noises fade; the air softens; the black cloud rises and rolls toward the valley.”

WORD

“Enclosed in the shell of reticence, both sin and virtue, the Salmàgina winemaker delegates every message to the eloquence of his wine. But the wind too is not very talkative and far from the haughtiness of display”